A Perfect Journey Through the Heart of Xiata and Muzarte Glacier

A Perfect Hike to the Heart of Xiarta and the Muzart Glacier

Heart of Xiarta: Exploring the Muzart Pass

I’m not one to throw around words like "ceiling," but when I saw someone describe the Muzart Glacier as a dragon that tumbled across the mountains, I was hooked and booked a ticket to Yining. In four days, covering 46 kilometers, I dubbed this route “the heart of Xiarta” because the whole ancient path felt like a frozen tongue beating within the chest of the mountains.

Itinerary: From Yining to the Campsite

I arrived at the Yining bus station on Friday morning and bought a ticket to Zhaosu. The Yining to Zhaosu bus takes 3.5 hours, packed with locals hauling big bags. Once at Zhaosu, I easily found a shared minivan at the exit to the tunnel construction campsite, bargaining down to 50 yuan each.
The area near the tunnel was just a dirt patch with some temporary metal shacks, no toilets and no signal, and the wind was so strong it felt like it could blow our tents away. I managed to find a dip by a drainage ditch, and it took six stakes to secure my yurt.

Challenging Myself: Hiking to 3760 Da Ban

As soon as dusk hit, I packed up and set off with my 14 kg pack on a 14.5 km hike with an elevation gain of 1000 m and a descent of 750 m on Day 2. I started on a muddy road made by bulldozers, my feet getting covered in dust. The rocky slope right before 3760 Da Ban was the toughest; after catching my breath, I looked up to see a whole patch of wild mint just below the snow line, so green it felt unreal.

I reached the wooden cabin campsite by five in the evening, and there were only four empty beds inside. I boiled some water and made instant porridge. By nine o'clock that night, I heard someone shouting, “Look at the snow-capped mountain!” I dashed outside barefoot, and Snow Lotus Peak was soaking up the last bit of orange light, as if someone had placed a golden hat on the mountain.

The Beautiful Glacier: Life at the Muzart Viewing Camp

On Day 3, I slept in and didn’t leave the wooden cabin until ten. I first had to cross a little river, going barefoot because the stones felt like ice balls. Following a rocky valley upwards, a dazzling blue glacial lake appeared out of nowhere, with the white wall of Baiyu Peak right across the shore.

I tossed my backpack onto the slope and took photos until my legs went numb. After another 40 minutes, I made it to 3560 Da Ban. Despite the lower altitude, the wind was sharp like a knife. There were two old prayer flags flapping on the pass, and the Muzart Glacier flowed down from the mountain like a shattered glass walkway.

I camped just below the viewpoint, and it was exactly four-thirty in the afternoon when the wind died down so much I could even hear the sound of an avalanche. I cooked some noodles, and the broth reflected the glacier’s crevasses as if I had added special effects.

Relaxing Moments: Resting and Glacier Lake Exploration

Day 4 was supposed to be a rest day, but I just couldn’t sit still. Just 300 meters up from the campsite leads to the ice tongue's edge. The blue light coming from the ice crevices was nearly black; I tried my ice axe on it, and ice debris came crashing down. There was a little slope nearby that overlooked the entire lake, where fragments of ice floated on the surface, reminiscent of a freshly made mango snow cone.

For lunch, I made noodles again, adding an extra dried sausage as a treat. At three in the afternoon, it started snowing lightly, so I crawled back into my tent to jot down some notes: my socks were almost dry, one shoelace had snapped again, and I had to get down to restock.

Journey Back: From Jiangjun Bridge to Zhaosu

On Day 5, I woke up at six and packed my things quickly. I traced my steps back to the three-way intersection, turned right, crossed the river, and walked along the right bank, following the north route of the South Tianshan. It was all downhill, 21.5 km with an ascent of 100 m and a descent of 1200 m, and my knees felt like they were being hammered. The last 7 km were on a path of jagged wood that made my feet go numb.

By three in the afternoon, I got to Jiangjun Bridge and just lay down on the bridge to eat my last Snickers. I hitchhiked back to Zhaosu in a passing pickup truck; the driver charged me 30 yuan, and I shared the backseat with two Kazakh guys who passed around some salty yogurt chunks that had me guzzling water like crazy.

Overview: Reflections on a 4-Day Hiking Journey

• Distance: 46 km
• Total Elevation Gain: 1800 m
• Total Descent: 2200 m
• Food: Main meals for four days + one day's emergency snacks (bringing an extra pack of crackers is the most hassle-free option)
• Water Sources: The first day had a creek at the campsite, and every valley afterward flowed with meltwater, so remember to bring a filter.
• Campsites: Camping outside on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th nights, as there was no fire in the wooden cabin; you'll need to bring your own stove.

Don’t carry too much; the wind in the mountains will turn your pot into a kite.